A nose for winemaking
“Consuming large quantities isn’t necessary but a passion for wine is a must for a career in wine,” says Andrew Higgins, 31, appointed senior red winemaker of McWilliam’s in July of 2006.
Higgins, who began his career as a cellarhand, is now responsible for 12 million bottles each vintage.
“A trainee winemaker needs to have a lot of enthusiasm because 50 per cent of his or her waking hours involve the job,” Higgins says. “So it is essential to enjoy what you are doing.”
Higgins had no winemaking background and after leaving high school did labouring jobs for two years, unsure about the career he wanted to pursue.
“I am from Griffith and a couple of mates who were doing a winemaking course at Wagga Wagga’s Charles Sturt University told me it was great fun,” he says.
“So I enrolled in CSU’s Wine Science Degree course, doing the first year on campus.
“After that I got a part-time job as cellarhand at McWilliam’s, completing the second and third years of my course combining campus and field work, getting hands-on vineyard and winemaking experience.
“During harvest the hours are extremely long, 12 to 15 hours a day, seven days a week.
“And because McWilliam’s processes fruit and juice at Hanwood from its vineyards all over Australia, vintage stretches to at least 10 weeks. But that makes it especially interesting because I get to see fruit from the coldest to the warmest climates.
“We get grapes and juice from Riverina, Young, Tumbarumba, Gundagai and the Hunter Valley, Victoria’s Yarra Valley, Heathcote, the Grampians and Mildura, SA’s McLaren Vale, Coonawarra and Barossa Valley, Tasmania and Margaret River in WA. And there are fantastic travel opportunities along the way.
“In 2005 McWilliam’s sent me to France’s Rhone Valley for two months to study how they made shiraz and three years later I was off to the south of France, Burgundy and Bordeaux. In Australia we are fortunate because when it is not harvest time here, we get the chance to work vintages in the northern hemisphere.
“Every occupation has a downside but apart from the hours during harvest I can’t think of another drawback as a winemaker.
“While vintage is hectic and demanding, it is the most rewarding time. That is when a winemaker gets to shape the style of the wines which are being made.
“After vintage finishes it is all about blending, maintaining and maturing the wines.”
Jim Brayne, chief winemaker for McWilliam’s Australia-wide, likens winemaking to being a chef.
“A winemaker must be able to taste and discern flavours and to have flair,” Brayne says.
“And winemaking is a team effort, just as a chef in a large kitchen has to be able to work in a team environment.”
There are more than 2000 wineries in Australia, mostly family-owned.
Brayne contends family wineries are especially good for young winemakers.
“In these companies the senior winemakers are more inclined to take the trainees under their wing,” he says.
How to be a … Winemaker
Qualifications
“To become a senior winemaker you must complete a bachelor of applied science and oenology,” Jim Brayne (pictured) says. “Charles Sturt University at Wagga Wagga runs courses for three years full-time, or by correspondence for six years. After completing a more basic course graduates can start as assistant winemakers and then move to being a winemaker.”
Courses and costs
Winemaking courses at Charles Sturt University begin at around $900 per subject. The undergraduate courses have Commonwealth-supported places with student contributions depending on subjects studied. Tuition rates are reviewed annually. Call 6338 6000 or visit www.csu.edu.au/study
From the inside
“I would encourage anyone who wants a career which totally consumes you to become a winemaker,” Brayne says. “It is an occupation where you live and breathe it, walk and talk it.”
